Al-Ko hubs - flange nuts

[argonaut]

Time to start thinking of pre-season tasks.
I have an SBS 2600 EL. Twin axle trailer.
They state hubs are maintenance free, just look in through observation hole to view thickness of brake pads.
I launch in salt water ... and hubs always look poor after 12 months .. so I remove, clean all, grease adjuster mechanism, oil springs. Etc,
In previous trailers (Indespension) they had castellated nuts and split pins, installed with end float for Taper Roller bearings.

These hubs are fitted with one-shot elliptical flange nuts .... that have to be replaced and set to 290Nm torque. (That is a pretty serious torque)

Key Q ... Al-Ko state ... “Before fitting a new flanged nut, a small amount of the special mineral grease must be applied to the stub axle thread.”

Anybody done this ? .... what grease did you use?

I am assuming the tightening force allows for the difference of having grease applied, plus will help prevent threads galling.

I do have a torque wrench that goes that high ... but how easy it will be to apply that much force I have yet to find out .... may have to add extension tube to Torque wrench handle.

[Ianfs]

The description for Al-Ko hubs being maintenance free and bearings which say sealed for life is good marketing and does indicate to us all that because of this, they are sealed and maintenance free and we just leave them alone. On most caravans and road trailers of course this is exactly what happens.

Not so for anything dipping into salt water...... It simply means you cannot maintain the bearings by stripping them down, as you have done with tapered bearings. Eventually the "sealed for life" bearings will let in water and fail. At least with tapered bearings which are replaced every year and which may have bearing savers fitted you know how much water resistant grease is protecting the bearings. With sealed bearings you can never be sure if and when they may fail.

I think it was you Rick who pointed me in the direction of Rustbuster paints, a two part epoxy paint which I have used for more than 7yrs now and it is amazing stuff. Certainly if I were to buy a new trailer, I would first coat the hubs and vulnerable parts with it.

So to the flange nuts and tightening. I still have the Disco TD5 and have had to replace a couple of bearings on her. They are one shot flange nuts and have sealed bearings which is ridiculous considering you can wade up to and over the wheels, so anyone coming from a long journey who doesn't let the hubs cool before wading is asking for trouble.

I used a particularly long industrial torque wrench to do mine and molybdenum grease. As you quite rightly say the grease is only to stop the threads galling/baulking at such high pressures so that you get the correct torque.

[argonaut]

Someting I’m thinking of doing is taking my boat off the trailer and spraying everything except brake shoes with Lanoguard. (Incl inside of box sections)
This is getting very good reviews.

[Ianfs]

Thats a great idea.

Do you think you'll need to de-salt everything first so that its not locked in?

[argonaut]

Yes ... I will pressure wash and then use salt remover.