Engine hatch repair ?

[Ianfs]

As I said, T prong nuts are normally what boat builders use for wood fixings. For Stainless try........

https://www.fastenright.com/general-fixings/stainless-steel-4-prong-tee-nut/ff24

I would ditch the plastic and open up as much of the wood aa I can. Then paint the wood in Epoxy resin or at least as much of the wood which is exposed to water.. It should then last forever.

[ColinR]

Following of from Ian's suggestion. If you are sealing the wood with epoxy warm it up first with a hair dryer then apply the epoxy. As the wood cools it pulls the epoxy into the grain giving a deeper cover. I was shown that on a course at West Systems in Romsey who run a very interesting and useful one day course on the use of their products. The example they gave was repairing partially rotted wooden window cills.

Tip of the day

[betty boop]

Following of from Ian's suggestion. If you are sealing the wood with epoxy warm it up first with a hair dryer then apply the epoxy. As the wood cools it pulls the epoxy into the grain giving a deeper cover. I was shown that on a course at West Systems in Romsey who run a very interesting and useful one day course on the use of their products. The example they gave was repairing partially rotted wooden window cills.

Tip of the day

very useful, I think you should launch a Colins tip of the day section

[ColinR]

Just don't trust me weather tips, I'm as bad as Ian for forecasting

[argonaut]

New stainless T-Nuts fitted, went up a size to 8mm (from 1/4 UNC)
Didn't need to repair any wood, but did put in an epoxy filler to level the 'dents' where old T-Nuts and bit into the wood.
Won't be coating it all with epoxy as not stripping all foam & vinyl off.

Still concerned over the design though ......... fact of life that this hatch is going to get wet, water ingress via stitching. There is no allowance for draining water out.
The plastic 'over foam' obviously does not work as wood was soaked around hinge area. Which caused the (non-stainless) T-nuts to corrode away.

There really should be some vent/hole to allow any water that does get in to get back out.


As a side note - still no response from Monterey, after 5 separate contacts to their web contact form, all I get is auto response 'We are forwarding your request to the appropriate Monterey representative who will contact you shortly.'

They still have not approved my post to owners forum, even tried FB page and no response from that either - I expected better.

[argonaut]

All complete .... reupholstered, treated myself to a new pneumatic stapler and a box of stainless staples.

Back on boat and looks as new (and works as new)

The concern is this is a large 'pad' about 5' x 4' and it will get wet.
Obviously water gets inside the 'pad' ......... and it is not able to get out .......... no allowance for this in the design.

I have still had no assistance from Monterey ... to try and force some action I put a post on their Facebook page - git a message saying someone will contact me "[color=#0000FF]Your issue is important to us and we want to help get it taken care of for you."

I did ask about allowing posts onto the forum without the moderator approval step - "Monterey marketing have decided that they wish to control posts to the forum to prevent any issues"
[/color]

[joydivision]

Hi Argonaut,

New stainless T-Nuts fitted, went up a size to 8mm (from 1/4 UNC)

can you remember where you sourced these from? We have the same issue at the moment and I'm struggling to find Marine grade T-Nuts

[argonaut]

I got what I needed from Falcon workshop sales@falconworkshop.co.uk

M8 x 11 T-nuts in A2 stainless

M8 x 25 button head, allen screw in A2 stainless


Here is eBay link to the T-Nut

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M8-x-11mm-A2- ... 72437bcba9


I my case wood was perfect, just opened out holes in wood slightly and in hinge to suit the slightly larger size I had chosen.

[sprocker]

Hi Argonaut,

For future reference you would be better off with A4 stainless fittings as opposed to A2.

A4 stainless has added Molybdenum which gives it a higher corrosion resistance.

[argonaut]

Yep - I know A4 is better - but could not find anybody who had A2 T-nuts in stock
A2 Stainless Steel is Corrosion Resistant Steel, also Known As ASTM-304
A4 Stainless Steel is higher protection for highly caustic environments where improved resistance to pitting Corrosion Is Required, typically below the waterline marine & on exhausts.

In my case A2 stainless was a better than galv steel versions fitted by manufacturer

I could have imported from US ... but wanted my boat back in water same week.
If galv lasted 5 years - then A2 will last me